Do not go hunting for the right form yet. In the first minutes after a scam, a theft, or a payment you did not make, three actions matter more than everything else — in this order.
Open your banking app and freeze (lock) the card the money left from. It takes under a minute and stops the next payment while you work through the rest of this page. If the money left by bank transfer instead, skip to step 2 — your bank is the one who can act on a transfer.
Call the number printed on the back of your card, or the number shown inside your banking app — never a number from a text message or a search ad. Say the payment was not authorized (or that you were tricked into sending it), and ask the bank to start a fraud report and try to stop or recall the payment. Speed matters: a payment that has not settled yet can sometimes still be stopped, and reporting fast protects your legal rights on card and bank-transfer payments alike. Write down the date, the time, and the name of the person you spoke to.
Using a device you trust (not one the scammer talked you into installing software on), change your bank password and your email password, and turn on two-factor authentication for both. Your email is the master key: whoever holds it can reset everything else. If you installed any app or screen-sharing tool during the scam, delete it first and do this step from another device.
Each app plays by different recovery rules, and the funding behind the payment changes the answer. The Scam Recovery Navigator asks 4 questions and builds your exact recovery plan. Build my recovery plan →
Authorized-push-payment scams have their own playbook — the report you file, the words that matter, and the reimbursement rules in the UK and US. Paid a scammer? Read this →
Once the card is frozen and reported, your dispute runs on a deadline. Check exactly how long you have — the window depends on your network, your card type, and what happened. Check my deadline →